Yesterday we arrived at Varanasi unscathed.  We have had a couple of encounters with the authorities, but every time it has only been because they are curious — no trouble.

At the outset of our adventure, we thought that Varanasi would be too far south, but given our progress we have actually taken a rest day here.  Though many teams are havintrouble and are well behind schedule, we have been extremely lucky.  We are now over half way through our journey.

Knowing that the next couple of days crossing Bihar will have only very basic accommodations, it will come as no surprise to people who know me that we’ve taken advantage of the fact that Varanasi is home to one of the great hotels of the world and we have splurged on a stay at the Nadesar Palace.  It took a full 30 minutes to convince security that two dust-covered guys driving an auto-rickshaw were legitimate guests, but everyone was gracious once they realized what we were doing and allowed us to proceed to check-in.  This is truly a place of peace and tranquility in the midst of utter chaos.  It has been a great spot to recuperate mentally and physically.

Despite the fact that this could have been our one opportunity to sleep in, we started today with a sunrise float down the Ganges.  From the river you have tremendous views of the ghats and all of the life that goes on there, just as it has for hundreds of years.

Next up was a morning yoga class, followed by organizing a mechanical check up for Hillary.  She had her fluids changed, and a double hip replacement.  Although she hadn’t complained much, I think she might not have gotten us a whole lot further without that TLC.  Parts plus labor, approximately $40 — what a deal!

An afternoon nap was a real treat, followed by a horse-drawn carriage ride through the 40 acres of the hotel’s grounds.  The driver is the 4th of his line to drive the same 180 year old carriage.  His family first drove for the British (who built the Palace), then for the Maharaja of Varansi who took over the property after the British, and now for guests at the 12-room hotel.  The entire place is essentially a museum.

So, our rest being over and luxurious life coming to an end, we will continue tomorrow to Bodhgaya in Bihar.  Bodhgaya is famous as the spot where the Buddha achieved enlightenment, and we hope to visit the spot tomorrow afternoon for some inspiration of our own.

Cheers,
Brian and Jason